Black Beans by Laurie Colwin

256px-Annibale_Carracci_The_BeaneaterLaurie Colwin is the writer-turned-foodwriter in recent contemporary American foodwriting most likely to win “Most Unabashedly Well-Loved” by her audience. She writes of what home is and what families are supposed to be – and of the nurturing potential of food. Nothing complex, no layers or arguments. Just a clear-eyed gaze and a hug.

Screen Shot 2014-09-14 at 10.37.00 AMTo continue reading this piece in full (and to see the recipes provided and more) go to google books where Laurie Colwin writes of black beans.

Tofu-Kozo in Japanese Literature

Katsukawa_Shuntei_Tofu-kozoYou might want to look behind you if you happen to be walking alone on a dark rainy night – the Tofu-Kozo might be right behind you, waiting to offer you his special tofu. Nobody really knows where he came from, but he seems to be everywhere, and he’s been around for a very long time.

In literature from the Showa and Heisei eras and beyond, it is frequently written that they would appear on rainy nights, and recommend the relish of tōfu to people passing by, but halfway into eating it a mold would grow

[ . . .] In the original kusazōshi, they did not possess any special powers, and they often appear as servants that bring tōfu and sake here and there in the town,[4] and it is also changed in senryū such poems like “tōfu-kozō are servant monsters (豆腐小僧ハ化ものゝ小間使ひ

Just to be safe, you’d better read up about Tofu-Kozo. It’s starting to rain . . .the evening approaches . . . what’s that behind you?!

Comrade V.V. Pokhlebkin’s Treatises on Russian Food


If you want to know anything about Russian food – and I mean extensively and thoroughly know – the man to go to is V.V. Pokhlebkin. Historian, academic, writer, foodie. Today I’m giving you a treasure trove in the form of a link to all of his writings online.


V. V. Pokhlebkin’s SEASONINGS  Seasonings — it with what season, flavor, improve food, mix to it something improving its general taste. Usual dictionaries interpret the concept “seasoning” as everything that accompanies, accompanies food in general and the main food in particular. Such interpretation even more expands sense of this term.

IN TOTAL ABOUT  V. V. Pokhlebkin’s SPICES  Spices — a product of exclusively phytogenesis. And the plants giving spices, belong more than to 30 various botanical families.

The CULINARY DICTIONARY from And to I  am V. V. Pokhlebkin  The offered dictionary offers an explanation, interpretation and a help material (a compounding, nature of application) on all categories of the terms relating to area of cookery: to its history, the theory, practice, raw materials (products), kitchen to utensils, tableware, tools, types of the center etc.

V. V. Pokhlebkin Kniga’s RUSSIAN AND SOVIET KITCHENS of known author-culinary specialist V. V. Pokhlebkin will acquaint readers with history of national kitchens of the people of our country, with the detailed characteristic, features, processing methods of each of them. The main contents is made by recipes of preparation of national dishes. V. V. Pokhlebkin Retsepty’s Russian cuisine of Russian cuisine

UKRAINIAN CUISINE  V. V. Pokhlebkin Sredi of Slavic kitchens the Ukrainian uses wide popularity. It gained long ago distribution far outside Ukraine, and some dishes of Ukrainian cuisine, for example borsches and vareniki, entered into the menu of the international kitchen. V. V. Pokhlebkin Retsepty’s Ukrainian cuisine of Ukrainian cuisine

 V. V. Pokhlebkin’s BELARUSIAN CUISINE  As for purely flavoring qualities of dishes of Belarusian cuisine, they are very high, especially if them use svezheprigotovlenny (for example, the dishes containing potatoes and a flour), hot — “with a heat, about a heat”, instead of cooled down and the more so warmed. V. V. Pokhlebkin Retsepty’s Belarusian cuisine of Belarusian cuisine

V. V. Pokhlebkin’s MOLDAVIAN CUISINE Moldova — edge of rich natural opportunities, edge of grapes, fruit and various vegetables, and also sheep breeding and poultry farming. No wonder that Moldavian cuisine long since uses all these riches. V. V. Pokhlebkin Retsepty’s Moldavian cuisine of Moldavian cuisine

AZERBAIJAN CUISINE  V. V. Pokhlebkin Svoyeobraziye of Azerbaijan cuisine is that, possessing some similar lines with other Transcaucasian kitchens — existence of the same type of the center (тындыр), kitchen utensils and food raw materials — she created a bit different menu and as a whole other flavoring scale on this base. V. V. Pokhlebkin Retsepty’s Azerbaijan cuisine of Azerbaijan cuisine

V. V. Pokhlebkin’s ARMENIAN CUISINE  Armenian cuisine — one of the most ancient kitchens in Asia and the most ancient in Transcaucasia. Its characteristic features developed still, at least, in a millennium B.C., during formation of the Armenian people and remain in many respects throughout more than three millennia. V. V. Pokhlebkin Retsepty’s Armenian cuisine of Armenian cuisine

GEORGIAN CUISINE V. V. Pokhlebkin  Speaking about Georgian cuisine, it is necessary to tell about the main distinctions of cuisines of the Western and East Georgia caused not only a different environment of these two big areas, but also known Turkish influence on cuisine of the Western Georgia and Iranian — on cuisine of East Georgia. V. V. Pokhlebkin’s Georgian cuisine. Recipes of Georgian cuisine

BALTIC KITCHENS  V. V. Pokhlebkin Baltic kitchens — Estonian, Latvian and Lithuanian — have a number of the common features caused by similarity of an environment and historical development of the people of Baltic. V. V. Pokhlebkin Retsepty’s Lithuanian cuisine of Lithuanian cuisine, V. V. Pokhlebkin Retsepty’s Estonian kitchen of Estonian kitchen. V. V. Pokhlebkin Retsepty’s Latvian kitchen of the Latvian kitchen.

V. V. Pokhlebkin Govorya’s CENTRAL ASIAN KITCHENS about the Central Asian kitchens, it should be noted their community, on the one hand, and some isolation of the Turkmen kitchen from Uzbek and Tajik — with another. Recipes of the Central Asian kitchen.

ЗAPOLYARNY, MONGOLIAN, JEWISH KITCHENS; KITCHEN OF THE FINNO-UGRIC PEOPLE   Three large national culinary directions are presented to V. V. Pokhlebkin not only in the territory of the CIS, but also beyond its limits. These are the Mongolian, subarctic (polar) and Jewish kitchens. All of them considerably differ and from each other, and from considered in the book. V. V. Pokhlebkin Retsepty’s polar kitchen of Polar kitchen. V. V. Pokhlebkin Retsepty’s Mongolian kitchen of the Mongolian kitchen. V. V. Pokhlebkin Retsepty’s Jewish kitchen of the Jewish kitchen. Recipes of Finno-Ugric kitchen of V. V. Pokhlebkin

 V. V. Pokhlebkin Moda’s my KITCHEN on sandwich-type, so-called “buffet”, on consumption of “quick food” — “fast food” — takes in the last decade and Russia.

Recipes of dishes of ethnic cuisine of the people of Russia and USSR. Russian national recipes. Recipes of dishes of Russian cuisine. Russian cuisine recipes. National recipes of the people of the USSR.